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At Home in the High Country

CabinFrom the front porch of his mountain cabin artist Larry Milligan looks across an open meadow at some of the most spectacular mountain peaks in North America. The Sawtooth Range, as it's called, rises up from a dark forest of lodgepole pine to cut a ragged outline against the Idaho heaven.
   
On a summer's day there may be cattle grazing in that meadow, or perhaps a small herd of elk. In winter you're as likely to see coyotes and eagles and jackrabbits.
   
The view is much the same as it was a century or more ago when there were no freeways or airports or fax machines. Larry can look out and easily imagine Indian tipis, stagecoaches and cowboys roping calves. Images like these emerge on his Western art canvasses.

"We came here for the beauty of the place," Larry says looking back on the move he and his wife, Jody, made from the highways of California to the wilderness of Idaho in 1969. They gave up well-paying jobs in an established community for an unsettled territory with few prospects.
   
The Milligans left behind fast food and indoor plumbing to live like homesteaders in one of the most primitive corners of the continent. They taught themselves how to cut timber and build a cabin, and they learned new ways to make a living or get by on less.
   
By the time he was 26 years old Larry had his fill of city life and was determined to return to the country. Raised in rural Idaho and schooled in electronics, the young man and his high school sweetheart had moved to the big cities pursuing adventure and opportunity. They found good jobs and plenty of nightlife, but before long they realized something was missing.
   
"We were tired of the traffic and the crime," Larry recalls. "And the people were very impersonal. We just wanted to come back home."
   
Beckoned by the Sawtooth Range, the Milligans bought two acres of undeveloped ground in Sawtooth Valley, erected a couple tents, and commenced to building themselves a log home. Neighboring ranchers shook their heads in amazement and figured the newcomers would be gone by spring. But 25 years later the Milligans are still living their dream in the cabin where they raised two daughters, Genii and Sarah.
   
"The only thing that's saved us has been ignorance, because we never knew what we were doing," Larry says with a broad smile.
   
Old Ways of Working WooWith a chainsaw, an old Chevy half-ton pickup, and a general idea about how to proceed, Larry and Jody constructed their family home in two summers. "I had built a small model of the house out of dowels, and I had determined -- based on an average of 9 inches diameter -- how many trees I would need of what length," Larry explains.
   
Armed with his lists of dimensions and Forest Sevice permits, Larry went out to the nearby forests looking for dead-standing timber of the right sizes. He brought the trees back to the property in his pickup, draw-shaved and notched them by hand, and laid them into place one by one.
   
The cabin's fireplace was constructed from slabs of slate gathered from a rockslide and its bathroom, for the first dozen years or so, was an outhouse. Inside the two-story structure are three bedrooms, a cozy kitchen, a living room, and a loft studio where Larry does his painting. The cabinetry and finishings were all crafted by hand using native materials like deer antlers for drawer handles.
   
The cabin isn't finished, Larry claims, but it now has indoor plumbing and it's been home for a quarter-century.
   
"Like a lot of people in the '60s and '70s, we were caught up in getting back to the land. But the first winter was a rude awakening. It was much colder and the snow was much deeper than what I expected," Larry recalls.
   
At 6,500 feet elevation, winter often brings 40-below temperatures and snow drifts six feet high to the Sawtooth Valley. The nearest schools and groceries are in Stanley, 12 miles away, or Challis, nearly 70 miles. Neighbors are few and far between. Only about a dozen families were over-wintering in the Sawtooth Valley when the Milligans arrived.
   
Jobs, too, were scarce. After giving up a career in banking when she moved back to Idaho, Jody spent the next several years working as a waitress and clerk. Larry provided day care for their first daughter, three-year-old Genii, while he worked on the cabin for the first two years. Then he started painting.
   
"I came back to Idaho not knowing exactly what I was going to do to make a living," Larry recalls. "But I always had the idea in the back of my mind of being an artist. Of course, I didn't know exactly what it took to be an artist then. Do you paint some pictures, set them outside the door and the next morning there's $25 in the tin?"
   
When Larry first discovered his talent for art as a teenager it was the images of the Old West, inspired by artists like Charlie Russell and Frederic Remington, that emerged on his canvasses. He tried other styles and subjects, but he kept coming back to cowboys and Indians.
   
"If I'd been in Maine, maybe I would have painted lobstermen and stuff," Larry says.
   
Born not far from Nashville -- in Marysville, Alabama -- the 51-year-old artist grew up on country music and Western styles. Folks in his family would miss a meal before they'd miss the Grand Ole Opry on the radio. When they moved to Idaho the songs of Jim Reeves and Marty Robbins and Patsy Cline went with them on the air waves.
   
In his Sawtooth Valley studio the lonesome wail of Willie Nelson lingers in the background as Larry applies the finishing touches to his latest painting, a portrait of a Piegan Indian warrior. He recalls how the long winters in this quietly beautiful setting gave him the time and inspiration to find his metier in the art world. Today he markets his paintings in more than a dozen galleries and has a long list of consigned projects to complete.
   
"My thing is painting out of my imagination as much as possible," he says. "What I paint is no longer around, so my imagination has to take over. But, of course, your imagination has to be tempered with a little bit of common sense and historical accuracy. You have to do your homework."
   
A passionate student of western history and Native American cultures, Larry has gathered a vast collection of Old West books and artifacts. His studio is littered with Sioux warclubs and tipi bags, Nez Perce drums and beaded gloves, and the paintings of other Western artists like Ace Powell, Sheryl Bodily and Ray Dan Sleeping Bear.
   
His paintings depict the everyday lives of 19th century Westerners, both Indian and white, at work and at play. "I try to show these people as human beings who were up against a tough set of circumstances in terms of terrain, the weather, the climate they lived in and as their beliefs drove them," he explains.
   
Like other artists, Larry also pours his own experience onto his canvasses. His winter scenes are from a hand that has known the threat of frostbite and his paintings of pioneers are by a man who has felled trees and laid his own hearth. The Sawtooth Range, his constant neighbor, often emerges in the background.
   
As for paintings with settings outside the Sawtooth Valley, Larry says he may be ruined: "I swear, even when I paint other mountains now they always have a Sawtooth flavor to them."

by MichaelHofferber@outriderbooks.com
Copyright © 1994. All rights reserved.


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